2 April 2014

Two sauces: tartar and pesto. The best laid plans of mice and men

The most careful prepared plans may go wrong.

It was July of 2012. Aurelia, my eldest daughter, was about to have  a busy schedule of extra-activites in the new school year starting in August, and Gabriel, my second child, was already going to a nursery school. In summery, I had free time. I needed a new project in my life that didn't involve changing nappies or going to the park. Something exciting to challenge myself and, at the same time, that it could keep my mind busy for the next two years until we leave Manila.

I did some research about the opportunities currently existing in the culinary world. Becoming a chef? Owning a restaurant? Writing a cookbook?…All my thoughts were leading me to food. My passion. I wanted to turn it into a profession, to make a career of it. The inspiration I had from my work experience with Stephanie Alexander's program had to be shaped into my new goal, a portable one: being a professional cook.

Every diplomatic posting opens a new window of opportunities for me, a diplomat's wife. This particular posting in the Philippines was giving me the chance to study in a culinary school called Enderun, which offered a 15-Month Certificate in Culinary Arts. This school had the partnership with the Alain Ducasse Formation, a leading French culinary institute and one of the world's most celebrated chefs, Alain Ducasse". It sounded just perfect.

After convincing Nick that I needed to study Culinary Arts so I could make wonderful meals everywhere and not only at home, and earn some money with it!, in September of 2012 I was enrolled in the intensive 15-Month course. I had the best plan laid for the future, or at least for two years.

One day of October, the next month after I paid the enormous amount of money for that course - yes, it was very expensive but totally worth it -, I was in my car with a friend of mine, a talented cook who had her own private cooking classes , going to the daycare centre where I occasionally did volunteer work. We were planning to make a decent meal with and for the nuns that look after the 34 children of the centre.

My friend and I were chatting during the way to the centre in Paranaque about our families, kids and our possible goals for the future. I told her about my detailed idea of doing this culinary course in Enderun school. I suggested to her to join me and she thought it was brilliant. Then, I warned her If you get pregnant, you will have to give up the course or change the schedule because this is going to be  very intensive 15 month, unless you do the two years course. Anyhow, I bet you will love it. I think a premonition was warning me simultaneously.

The course started in November. We both, my friend and I, joined the same Culinary school but with different schedules. I was anxious during the first few weeks and felt like going back to school. I also felt like a grandma as I was the oldest in the class with difference. Never mind, I thought, I will do my best.

Instead, the best I did was to have my third child from an unexpected and very complicated pregnancy that required me to stop studying the Culinary Arts.

I wouldn't be honest with you if I said that giving up the course I was so excited about made me happy. No, I wasn't. I was frustrated because my well thought plans went wrong. I didn't enjoy the pregnancy as much as I did with the other two, for obvious reasons, physical and emotional.

Now, that Juanan is nearly 9 months old I realise that plans may go wrong; or take a different direction; or surprise you.

In my case, they were even better. I continued cooking, experimenting in my kitchen with more successful than failure dinners -they are pretty good in general, according to my family and friends- and started to write this blog which apparently inspires people to have a go in their kitchens with the recipes, even if they are not 100% mine, most of them I adapt them.

I had recently a coffee with that friend I shared the culinary course with - for a couple of months only- and we laughed loudly remembering that conversation we had in my car a year ago.. She has her well deserved title and even met Alain Ducasse himself! and who knows what she will do professionally. I am sure she has already set her plans.

When she asked me about my new plans, I smiled back and said that my priorities in life have changed completely since then. I don't know. 

I couldn't give her an answer, because I didn't have it. What I know is that I prefer to live each day,  fully. Carpe diem. You never know the tricks that life makes now and then!.


 Tartar sauce
I made this simple sauce for a beautiful halibut tenderloin fish I cooked a few days ago. Don't be afraid of  the whisking part, it is part of the fun. This recipe is from Alice Walters.

In a mixing bowl combine:
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon water
  • a pinch of salt
Slowly dribble 3/4 cup olive oil, whisking constantly until thicken and lighten in colour. You can then add the oil a bit faster, whisking all the time until it is finished.

Stir in:
  • 1 tablespoon of chopped capers, cornichon or gherkin, parsley and chervil.
  • 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon and chives.
Season with salt and pepper and add more vinegar if desired. Let the sauce sit for 30 minutes in the fridge.


Feeling Nigella, but less glamorous








Pesto sauce alla Genovese
I love pesto. It is such a versatile sauce easy to prepare and to freeze (do not add the cheese). I add pesto to the minestrone soup, as a spread on sandwiches or even in y chicken broth. It is healthy and it helps with the digestion thanks to the basil leaves. I have made it as well with the local pili nuts and the result is still good.
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 cups of chopped basil leaves
  • 1/4 cup toasted pinuts.
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheextra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • Salt and pepper
  1. In a food processor or in a hand blender, depending how you like the texture, blend the garlic, basil leaves and pints. Slowly pour the oils. 
  2. Stir in the cheese. 
  3. Check for season…does it need more salt?
  4. Always cover it with a layer of oil to prevent it from turning brown and getting dry.


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